costuming Archives - Dramatics Magazine Online https://dramatics.org/tag/costuming/ Magazine of the International Thespian Society Mon, 05 Dec 2022 17:00:16 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://dramatics.org/wp-content/uploads/2022/03/cropped-EdTA_Icon_FC_RGB_WEB_Small_TM-32x32.png costuming Archives - Dramatics Magazine Online https://dramatics.org/tag/costuming/ 32 32 Design a Costume Quick-Change https://dramatics.org/design-a-costume-quick-change/ Wed, 30 Nov 2022 22:38:23 +0000 https://dramatics.org/?p=67947 8 tips for smooth transitions

The post Design a Costume Quick-Change appeared first on Dramatics Magazine Online.

]]>

Costumes are crucial to any show. Costume quick-change is key, but screenwriters occasionally leave only a short amount of time to transition from one to the next—sometimes not even enough for the actor to get to the dressing room and back.
In cases like these, you’ll need to design a smooth costume quick-change. Here’s how.

8 Steps to a Successful Costume Quick-Change

1. Read the whole script
Hopefully, you’ve already done this! Reading the script is also the first step to any good costume design. Look for any mention of clothing in dialogue or stage directions. Some quick changes are important plot points and will be obvious. But others might only be implied: for example, back-to-back scenes in which a character has very different costume needs.

Don’t look at scenes in isolation—it’s critical to imagine how characters will flow from one scene to the next. How much dialogue will you have for the quick-change to occur? What do you know about the blocking and choreography, and how much time will it take? Is it just one character who needs a fast costume change, or several? Also consider that a character may need to remain on stage even after their last line.

Attend a readthrough or rehearsal (even if you’re still early in the production schedule) to have a better understanding of the scene’s pacing, as well as the actor’s physical needs. You might even time the section of the script.

2. Talk with the director
The quick-change should align with the rest of the show, and your director—who’s involved in every part of the production—will have that perspective. Ask them the following:
● Will the quick-change occur on stage, or off?
● What else is happening on stage at the time?
● What else is happening in the wings at the time?
● Are there on-stage effects (such as lighting or smoke) that will affect the change, either by hiding it or making it more difficult to navigate?
● How are microphones going to be involved?
● Will hair style or wigs also need to be changed?

Your director can help you more fully understand the bigger picture—and you can help them understand what a realistic time frame is for the change.

3. Costume with the quick-change in mind

If possible, your quick-change should be a major factor as you’re designing the relevant costumes. Start with the costume being changed into (i.e., the second being worn). How will the actor put it on, and will they need help from crew members? It obviously needs to go on quickly and may need to be hidden underneath or behind the first costume. Likewise, your crew must be able to remove the first costume quickly, then set it to the side.

One solution could be layers. Can the actor wear the second costume (or at least some elements of it) underneath the first? Removing items is usually faster than putting them on, especially if you make use of “rigging” like snaps (see number 6) or fabrics designed to tear away.

4. Minimize the items being changed
The fewer items being changed, the faster the quick-change will be. Here are a few tips for limiting the number of articles you’ll need to change:
● Combine pieces by sewing them together: This limits the number of pieces being moved and the hands needed. Elsa’s famous “Let it Go” quick-change in Frozen is made possible by her coronation costume being just one piece, rather than a separate skirt, bodice and long-sleeved shirt. (Elsa’s second outfit is also underneath her first, as suggested in number 3.)
● Keep some items the same: Choose shoes, pants, undershirts, etc., that can be used in both costumes. This will save you, the actors, and the crew time and stress.
● Use wigs: Natural hair—with bobby pins, hair ties, ribbons, and sweat—can be extremely difficult to manipulate quickly. If your actor needs to change hair styles or color, wig changes can achieve the same look from the audience with less fuss.

5. Ensure modesty for the actor
Don’t forget the actor! This is a no-brainer if the quick-change is happening on stage as part of the show. But you should also consider modesty if the change is happening off stage. Some actors may have no qualms about changing in the wings in front of other actors and crew members, but you should check to ensure their comfort.

You could have the actor wear skin-colored underclothing (such as camisoles or bike shorts) or a leotard to help them feel more comfortable. You should also set up some time to have the actor meet and talk with the crew members who will be helping them.

6. Design the quick rig
Once you have your costumes and a plan, it’s time to add the “quick rig”: any modifications you need to make to the pieces to facilitate the quick-change. These usually take the form of fasteners that allow pieces to come off more quickly.

Each type of fastener has its benefits:
● Velcro is fast, but loud when removed.
● Snaps are fast and quieter than velcro but can tear fabric if not sewn on properly.
● Buttons are quieter and slower still and may be visible to the audience.
● Zippers are fast and quiet but could become caught mid-zip, hindering the rest of the change.
● Magnets are quick, fast, and discrete. But they may come undone at inopportune times, such as during choreography.
● Hook and eye fasteners hold well but are difficult to fasten quickly.
Decide which works best for the costume pieces and quick-change and make the needed alterations.

7. Organize and choreograph the crew
Just like action on stage, you’ll need to choreograph who goes where and does what during a quick-change. Planning this out ahead of time will prevent something not being fastened or a piece being dropped.

Part of your planning should involve “props” for those helping with the change. Lights are often dim backstage, so small flashlights for crew members can help everyone see better. And all crew members should have an apron with emergency items in case something goes wrong: safety pins, bobby pins, extra fabric, and body tape.

As you’re planning the quick-change’s movements, resist the urge to have the actor do too much. Their focus should be on the scene just before or after, not on the mechanics of the quick-change. In most cases, the actor can help the most by letting the crew do their work.

8. Practice!
Quick-changes are difficult to execute. Practice makes progress, which leads to perfection! Run the change at different speeds and levels of light—slowly at first and in full light, then faster and in lighting closer to the show’s. It may take you up until opening night to work it out. But keep at it and check in with your crew about ways you can improve.  ♦

Andrew Koch is a writer and editor from Cincinnati. He thanks his wife (who, as a costumer for a production of Beauty and the Beast, got Belle’s quick-change down to 37 seconds) for her help with this article.

The post Design a Costume Quick-Change appeared first on Dramatics Magazine Online.

]]>
Costuming a Show https://dramatics.org/costuming-a-show/ Wed, 24 Aug 2022 22:15:15 +0000 https://dramatics.org/?p=66792 9 Dos & 1 BIG Don't

The post Costuming a Show appeared first on Dramatics Magazine Online.

]]>

Costumes don’t just make your actors look good—they can have a big impact on how the audience understands the production as a whole. These tips will help you design and create stellar costumes.

The 10 Commandments of Costuming a Show

1. Thou shalt read the script A costumer’s biggest mistake is not being familiar with the source material. A script has both direct and indirect information about costumes, and the costume team needs to read for both early in the production process. Even little details can help the audience understand a character’s development. Professional costume designer Shirlee Idzakovich shares some specific clues to look for in this interview with EdTA.

Read between the lines for clues that characters give about their appearances. For example, Vivienne in Legally Blonde cannot wear heels, since another character observes that “both her hair and shoes are flat.”

better together neon sign2. Thou shalt not costume alone Costumes need to be a cohesive part of the production, so consult with other members of the team. Attend production meetings and listen for any decisions that might change the design of the show: notes about setting (especially time period and place), styles of music, hair and make-up design, and even set color. Your costume design needs to work well with all the show’s details, and reinforce the show’s key themes.

Also think about how the actors will move. Does choreography affect what the actor can (or can’t!) wear? Will the actor be using props that might affect their movement, or need to hide a prop in their costume?

3. Thou shalt anticipate costume changes Your script study should include notes about if and when actors will change from one costume to another. Observe how long they have to do so. If they have plenty of time, their costumes can be a bit more elaborate. But if they don’t (i.e., the actor has a “quick-change”), you’ll need to design a costume that’s simple and easy to change.

You might also consider using common items or layers that can be used for multiple scenes. For example, maybe the actor can wear the same pair of pants in both scenes, and just change his shirt. That will limit the number of items you and the actor are responsible for and make costume changes smoother.

For quick-change inspiration, check out Elsa’s on-stage dress reveal during “Let It Go” in Frozen.  

Woman dressed in clinging gold dress4. Thou shalt do research Hit the internet! Research what people wore in the time and place the show is set in. Look at contemporary photos and publications (such as catalogs, newspapers, magazines or even advertisements), and try to find recorded productions of shows that are set in a similar era.

5. Thou shalt sketch it out Regardless of your drawing skills, make a visual representation of what the costumes look like in your mind’s eye. Use magazine clippings, online photos, even dolls or action figures—whatever you can to help the actors, production team, and “seamsters” to understand your goal.

Visualizing the costume will also force you to consider what pieces need to be sewn from scratch, purchased, or repurposed from what you have in storage.

6. That shalt consider the details Costuming a show is so much more than fabric, sewing, and hemming. (Though it definitely involves all of those things!) You also need to consider accessories: hats, jewelry, shoes, purses, and more. Work with your props team to determine when and how items like umbrellas and purses will be used, as well as which department will have custody of them.

7. Thou shalt have costume fittings You should always have actors try on their costumes ahead of tech week—and you should be there to witness how they fit. Ask the actor if they can move how they need to (especially for any dance numbers or action sequences), and watch how the costume (or wig, if applicable) looks with their skin tone or hair color.

Also note the actor’s reaction. An actor should never question a costumer’s design, but their opinion of the piece can affect their portrayal. Evaluate if they seem comfortable in the costume and how it portrays their body. If the actor has a specific concern (and you have the time to listen), listen attentively and help them understand your point of view if there’s a conflict.

8. Thou shalt consider practice pieces Some shows feature pieces of a costume in scenes—almost like characters! For example, the titular “coat of many colors” in Joseph and the Amazing Technicolor Dreamcoat is usually the center of choreography in the song “Joseph’s Coat.”

Instead of waiting until final costumes are ready to fully rehearse those scenes, create practice pieces for the cast. These double as prototypes for your costume crew.

9. Thou shalt watch the final product on stage Stay tuned in during the entire rehearsal process. At least once per week, watch a full run-through of the show and take notes, both for the actors and yourself. You can provide insight on how to manage a costume during a tricky dance, or notice a costume piece that looks good in isolation but doesn’t work onstage with the rest of the cast.

10. Thou shalt enjoy the show Choose  a date during the final production to enjoy the work you’ve done. There’s nothing quite like listening to the audience at intermission discussing how nice Shelby’s costume looked in the first scene of Steel Magnolias, or hearing their gasp when Belle enters the stage in her yellow ball gown as “Beauty and the Beast” begins to play. You’ve earned it!

BONUS TIP: If you can’t wash your costumes, at least air them out between shows! The audience won’t be able to smell the actors, but anyone on (or behind) stage will!  ♦

Andrew Koch is writer and editor from Cincinnati. He is proud to have worn his wife’s “dreamcoat” design in a 2018 production of Joseph.

The post Costuming a Show appeared first on Dramatics Magazine Online.

]]>