Building Your First Theatrical Sewing Kit

WITHOUT A DOUBT, at some point in the production of a show, there will be a need for sewing. Whether you’re altering an existing piece, creating a new costume, or repairing soft goods such as curtains or drapes, you’ll need a sewing kit to save the day. For anyone likely to address these tasks, here are basic tools you’ll want to include in your first theatrical sewing kit.

Scissors

There are three types of scissors all costumers should have. The first is a pair of fabric or dressmaking shears. These are seven to 10 inches in length with long blades and an angled handle, making it easy to cut fabric on a flat surface. Fabric scissors should NEVER be used to cut anything except fabric, especially anything with adhesive that can dull the scissors. The sharper the blades stay, the more accurate and clean the cuts will be.

The second is a pair of tailor’s scissors. These are shorter and more portable, at five to six inches long. Tailor’s scissors can cut through heavy-duty materials and multiple layers. If space in your kit is an issue, a pair of tailor’s scissors can replace the dressmaking shears.

Finally, pinking shears are specialty scissors that create a zigzagged edge that prevents fabric from fraying. They keep edges clean when cutting sheer or satiny fabrics and are ideal for cutting ribbon. Particularly if you lack access to a serger — a special type of sewing machine that uses overlocking stitches to finish raw fabric edges — make sure to include a pair of pinking shears in your kit.

SEAM RIPPER

This handy tool is used to take apart or remove a seam. You may need to correct a mistake (which everyone makes at some point) or to adjust a hem or prior alteration on an existing piece. A seam ripper has one long side with a pointed end and one short side with a red ballpoint. The blade lies in the sharp curve between the two sides. Find one (or more) with a cover for the pointed end and a handle that feels comfortable in your hand.

While there are multiple ways to use a seam ripper, the most common one is to slide the sharp point under the thread and cut every four stitches in the seam — or about every quarter inch — on one side. Turn the piece over and pull off the long thread on that side. The other way to use the tool is to slide the blade between two layers of fabric, making sure the red ballpoint is underneath, and push gently to cut the thread between the layers. Use a lint roller to remove any thread bits left behind.

BEYOND CUTTING

In addition to scissors, needles and thread are vital to your sewing kit. Needles are easy: Buy a round case of “sharps” in various lengths. Sharps are basic needles with a sharp point, as opposed to those used for needlepoint, quilting, or other projects. For threads, you’ll want a few spools in basic neutral colors, such as white, black, brown, and beige. Make sure to purchase all-purpose thread and not a specialty thread. If you have room, add a spool of each primary color.

Other necessities include a measuring tape, pins, and fabric pens or pencils. The measuring tape should be at least 60 inches long. The zero end must be in good condition to ensure measurements are accurate — and be sure to measure twice.

Straight pins come in many varieties of length and end piece, including metal, plastic ball, and flat plastic. Any type will work, but don’t buy cheap pins that bend or lose their caps easily. Use a plastic or metal case to keep the pins secure. For easy access, include a pincushion with a wristband. Also keep a selection of safety pins in various sizes.

Fabric pens or pencils can be used to mark desired cuts or measurements on fabric. Most marketed for sewing are wax based in white or light blue. Gel markers used by lighting crews (and sometimes free where lighting supplies are sold) work similarly.

With these items stored in a solid case — preferably a plastic bin with a handle and a top that latches or locks — you’ll be ready for any sewing need, whether planned or emergency.