New Costumer’s Guide to Sewing

NEW COSTUMER TIP #1: GET THE RIGHT EQUIPMENT

It takes just a few items to make a basic sewing kit. But if you (or your costume department) decide you’ll take on larger sewing projects, here’s what you’ll need:

• A sewing machine: Consider a commonly known brand like Singer or Brother, so you can easily find online tutorials
• An iron and ironing board
• Straight pins
• Tape measure ribbon, for measuring both fabrics and actors
• A straight edge
• A marking pencil: Consider different colors for different colored fabrics
• A sewing gauge
• Thread of the correct colors: Carry at least black, navy, gray, white and brown, as well as thread that matches color with the fabric you’re using

You’ll also obviously need your fabrics, as well as patterns for your projects. If possible, secure extra fabric in case you make a mistake or want to do a “trial” piece. Make sure to also check the back of the pattern for any notions you may need, such as zippers, buttons, or elastic.

NEW COSTUMER TIP #2: TAKE A SEWING LESSON

A sewing machine is one of the most important tools for creating costumes, but it’s no good if you don’t know how to use it! Local craft stores usually offer lessons on how to use the machines. You might even consider setting up a private lesson with an experienced seamstress (even if they don’t have experience costuming). You can also find tutorials on YouTube.

Don’t forget to read your machine’s manual, too. It will likely give you some ideas for how to better use it and what you can create.

NEW COSTUMER TIP #3: DESIGN WITH A PLAN

We’ve written before about how you should costume a show. Once you know what you’re getting into, be sure to plan ahead. What pieces will you need to make from scratch? What pieces can you make by simply altering something from a previous show? Don’t be afraid to take on projects that stretch your current sewing abilities—balance that with the need to get pieces done on time.

NEW COSTUMER TIP #4: BUDGET YOUR TIME APPROPRIATELY

Leave yourself enough time to finish all your pieces, and plan to start any labor-intensive projects earlier in the production. Your goal should be to have everything done ahead of the first dress rehearsal. That’s because you want time to adjust costumes that are ill-fitting or otherwise not appropriate. Also consider whether you need an actor’s measurements to begin a piece. If a design isn’t specific to a particular actor, you could even start before the show is cast.

Note that some patterns come with estimated project times, but they might not accurately predict how long the project will take you as a novice.

NEW COSTUMER TIP #5: CONSIDER NO-SEW OPTIONS

Before you make your first stitch, think about other alteration methods that could achieve the same results with less time and handiwork. For example, you might be able to use iron-on patches, or glue pieces together. Maybe you can combine store-bought pieces or repurpose something from your program’s costume closet.

And if stitching the fabric is absolutely necessary, consider hand-stitching. While it may take more time, hand-stitching could result in fewer mistakes (and less frustration!), and less time spent overall on the piece.

NEW COSTUMER TIP #6: CHOOSE PATTERNS YOU UNDERSTAND

When starting a piece from scratch, choose a pattern that’s easy to understand. Brands like Simplicity or McCall’s are designed for new seamsters. The instructions often include more pictures, with sidebars to help you understand more complicated techniques. Make sure you read the whole pattern before beginning.

Also consider using the same pattern to make several costumes, each in a different color. The first costume you make with a pattern will take longer, but you’ll be more efficient with each subsequent piece as you get more experience.

NEW COSTUMER TIP #7: CHOOSE THE RIGHT FABRICS

The amount of fabrics in a fabric store can be overwhelming. But despite that great variety, only a few are appropriate for the stage. Consider the many types, and compare them to other fabrics that are more cost-effective and easier to use.

For example, leather may provide the right “look” for a cowboy vest in Annie Get Your Gun. But leather is very difficult to work with and hot when it’s worn on stage. Flannel might be a better alternative: It looks about the same from a distance with the right lighting, and it’s much easier to work with (both on the sewing machine and while dancing!).

When in doubt, start with cotton or broadcloth. These fabrics are easy to use and cost-effective, and they can create a wonderful picture on stage. They also come in a variety of colors and patterns to add an air of complexity—while saving your sanity in the sewing room. You can add trim or use certain sewing styles to make these simple fabrics really pop.

Make sure your fabrics are also washable, and carefully follow any cleaning instructions. You want your costumes to remain in pristine condition.

NEW COSTUMER TIP #8: SAVE YOUR WORK

If your troupe has the appropriate space, hang on to any costumes you make. You never know when you might be able to reuse a piece in another production. (Check out this interview with a costume shop manager for some space-management ideas.)

Don’t forget to take pictures of your work to add to your portfolio! Try to have pictures both of the costume being worn and on hangers or a dress form. Capture any particular utility or special feature the costume has. ♦

Andrew Koch is a writer and editor from Cincinnati. He’s still new to sewing, and also sometimes cross-stitches in his spare time.